In mid-April it was time for the annual SagalExpo in Lisbon. Subtitle ‘sabores de Portugal’: the flavors of Portugal. Wine, but also Portuguese foods are the focus of this trade fair. A visit to the fair is a great opportunity to also visit the area. On a lovely afternoon we drove to the Alentejo, to visit the Encosta das Perdizes vineyard.
Encosta das Perdizes literally means ‘partridge slope’. A name well chosen. We have barely passed through the gate of the vineyard when we see two partridges flying up. After a 1.5 hour drive we are near Évora, and are already in the middle of the Alentejo. João Victorino shows us around the recently planted vineyard. There it says Alicante Bouchet, but wait… did someone plant Nebbiolo there? Despite the slightly incorrect spelling, it’s really there. ‘This Italian grape is doing surprisingly well here,’ says João. ‘It is a project by one of the owners who has a fascination with Barolo. Curious where that will lead.
From the house at the end of the path, we walk past the various plantings. Many weeds, which are left alone to prevent diseases. A clay surface with stones. There is an extensive olive orchard surrounding the vineyard. The other product grown here is the Oil.
Drought
The biggest challenge here? The drought. Rain mainly falls only around November, which is why irrigation is allowed. Yet the Alentejo is less dry than Spain, due to its location in relation to the Atlantic Ocean and the hills along the border. The region has a relatively large amount of water, including the largest reservoir in Europe. Nevertheless, it is a significant investment to get the water to the vineyard. As a result, you see larger companies emerging, which can raise funds more easily.
The biggest surprise awaits us in the next vineyard. The very remote vines are between 80 and 100 years old. But that is not the most special part. The grape varieties here are among the rarest in Portugal. Portugal has about 250 actively cultivated species, but these are exceptional ones. The company leases this vineyard so that it is preserved and the varieties are not lost. An inventory by the University has just been completed. It was a painstaking job; the vines were each examined individually. There appear to be around 20 species. It would take too long to mention them all, but you can’t ignore this one: the ‘Amor Neo Mi Deixis’. That tastes like a religion that knew what to do with it. Exotic, anyway.
Évora
We have a drink with João in the village among the locals, with an old bullring across the street. Then we visit the larger town of Évora for dinner. The historic center of this city was recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. It is beautiful, with many small restaurants in narrow alleys. We eat local fish and meat specialties with 600 bottles of wine from the Alentejo around us, sometimes with only 950 bottles from one vineyard.
The region is definitely worth a (wine) visit. Keep in mind that it is still fairly green until May, but then downright brown and often very dry. And the partridges are probably not very active in summer.