The disadvantage of France as a wine country is that the focus often remains on the well-known wine regions. That’s why it can be difficult to discover the surprising gems off the beaten track. In a garden full of blooming flowers it is sometimes difficult to discover that one special wallflower. But if you look closely, you see them more and more: lesser-known wine regions that produce beautiful wines in all peace and quiet. On my trip to the south of France I made an extensive stop in the Côte Roannaise and the Côtes du Forez.
The Côte Roannaise and the Côtes du Forez are unknown wine regions for many Dutch people. Not least because they are not on the traditional holiday route to the south. The area starts west of the city of Roanne, which is about 100 kilometers northwest of Lyon. A part of France that is not so easy to reach. Still, it’s worth a stop. My interest in this area was sparked by a tasting last fall in France, where I tasted the surprisingly good wines of Domaine Désormière, located in the heart of this area.
Gamay
This is the area of the southern Loire, but that doesn’t say much about the wine from this region. Surprisingly enough, the wine made here has the most relationship with Beaujolais, 40 kilometers further northeast. The Côte Roannaise is the southernmost traditional area for Gamay, the grape we know from Beaujolais. Another similarity: the Beaujolais is partly located on volcanic soil (for example Brouilly). This area too. It is therefore not far from the now extinct volcanoes in the Puy-de-Dôme region.
A 30 year old AOC
The Côte Roannaise has 25 wine estates, with a total of 215 hectares of vineyards. More to the south, the smaller Forez has 12 wine estates with a total of 150 hectares of vineyards. The AOC of the Côte Roannaise is celebrating its 30th anniversary this year, with lots of festivities. This wine region is certainly putting itself on the map. Not only in quality; New methods and a young, enthusiastic generation of winemakers are also having an impact here. But a lot is also done on promotion. Walk into an average Office du Tourisme and you will find plenty of information about the wine region. And usually a nice collection of local wines.
We picked up the map and the beautifully designed booklet of the wine route, which leads from Le Crozet in the north to Saint-Marcellin-en-Forez in the south. The route literally leads you past all 38 wine estates, straight through the hills and over narrow roads. It is not without reason that the map contains a warning: do not try this with a camper!
Along the way we tasted a nice cross-section of what this region has to offer. Without any disappointments! There is indeed a clear parallel with the volcanic Beaujolais wines. That figures, because winemaking takes place in the same way, through maceration. Quality-wise, things are certainly moving in that direction. The more southerly Côte de Forez has a slightly different character. A little more white and a little less ‘bulles’ and higher vineyards, usually about 400 meters. All in all, a region to return to for a longer stay. And above all, to taste more often!
Would you like to read more about this special region? Check the (English) website of the Office du Tourisme. The wine route and accompanying booklet can be found here.
